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Kalamata culture


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:: Kalamata culture
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Kalamata culture

Round about the castle is a plain planted with olive trees and grapevines. The sea opens into an infinite expanse of azure.They say that the view of the sunset from the castle is one of the most splendid in the world.

Everything here is imbued with history and a fascinating light. Everywhere you look see ancient, Byzantine and Frankish monuments. Peristera is a place a little beyond the village of Raches (5 km. from Kiparissia), where three beehive tombs have been excavated.

Filiatra is not far off.
The whole district is dotted with churches, Byzantine and Frankish, of a venerable age. Gargaliani sits on a lush hillside. It's worth going up to the town to see the view below: a magical carpet of olive trees and vines that stretches to the sea with Marathoupoli and the islet of Proti, the site of a ruined Mycenaean acropolis, in the background.

Hora is built on a hilltop.
This village has preserved its old-fashioned appearance -- stone houses with tiled roofs and narrow lanes.
The finds from Nestor's palace and Peristera are on display in the local museum. South of Hora, 4 km. from Englianos, lays the ruined palace of wise Nestor, who took part in the Trojan War and whose city was the second largest in the Mycenaean world.

Built in the 13th century BC, the palace was destroyed by fire a century later.
Excavations have revealed the remains of a luxurious, two-store central building and two other auxiliary buildings.

The buildings were divided into formal apartments, storage areas for wine and oil, tool sheds and workshops.

The central apartments -- the throne room with its stuccoes-clay ceremonial hearth and the queen's quarters -- were richly decorated with frescoes.

In the palace archaeologists discovered thousands of clay pots, a bathroom with terracotta bathtub and 1.250 clay tablets with inscriptions in Linear B, which have since been deciphered. Several beehive tombs have been excavated in the area surrounding the palace. From Hora to Pilos the countryside is laid out with row upon row of olive trees, those benevolent trees protected by Athena.

Pilos is a pretty little town built up a hill on the south coast of the bay of Navarino. Snow-white two-store houses with courtyards drenched in flowers. The arcaded streets make you think you've been transported to an island.

The main square ringed with pastry shops is sheltered by humongous, centuries-old plane trees.
The TurkoVenetian fortress, known as Neokastro, dominates the west side of town. One of the most attractive in the Peloponnese, it is called that to distinguish it from the ancient fortress to the southwest, named Paliokastro or Palionavarino.

The bay of Voidokilia extends from the base of the old castle.
A tranquil, carefree sanctuary, the floor of the bay is covered with a thick layer of sand. The southernmost tip of the west coast of the Peloponnese lies Methoni. In the town are some enormous Venetian wells whose marble rims are furrowed by the pressure of huge ropes over the centuries.

Homer called Methoni "rich in vines" and tradition maintains that the town is so called because the donkeys (onoi) carrying its wine used to get drunk (methoun), from the heady aroma. You enter the castle by crossing a massive bridge, impressed by the gigantic walls, imposing bastions and monumental gates.

To the south another bridge unites the citadel with the Bourtzi, a fortified islet with casemates and towers.
But there's much more to see in Messinia.

Finikounda is a picturesque fishing village at the back of a bay. Caiques and fishing boats are drawn up all along its sandy shore, while its taverns serve their fresh catch to little tables at the water's edge.

The road winds like a vast serpent slowly amidst lush fields to arrive at Koroni. Its medieval atmosphere is imprinted in its old mansions, its churches and its castle. Still, diaphanous water, sandy beaches and opposite the little island of Venetiko with its enchanting beach.

From its hilltop site the Venetian citadel crowns the town. A proper eagle's nest, with thick walls and massive gates, it cuts a powerful and magnificent figure. Below the fortress in a little palm grove is a small building housing Koroni's collection of historical and archaeological artifacts. The beauty of the area, unchecked, unbroken, is a constant surprise.

Petalidi juts out from the head of a little bay. The sandy or pebbly beaches round about are shallow and sheltered from the wind. And surrounded by banana trees. What would you remember first about this place? Here, there, everywhere are souvenirs and expensive gifts.

Opposite Kalamata lies Almiro, above it Mt. Taigetos, the "masculine mountain" and next to it the sea, the Gulf of Messinia. Almiro is a small settlement by the sea with a clean pebbly beach and translucent waters. This is where the Messinian Mani begins. Its like entering another country. The landscape is precipitous, plunging headlong towards the sea. Wooded slopes and rugged peaks.
Brooks and torrents.
Deep gorges and high ridges. Only by the sea is it peaceful. Mikri and Megali Mantinia, Avia, Ano and Kato Verga Akrogiali, Kitries are some of the villages. Sand and pebbles and little coves but also pine and fir woods and crystalline springs, solitary chapels and caves once the dwelling place of nymphs and lined with stalagmites.
Hamlets hidden in the mountainsides and hamlets on the water's edge. Stone houses.
Sitting rooms with fireplaces. Flower-filled courtyards. Cobbled lanes.
Byzantine churches and castles.
Smudged frescoes and tall towers. Painted archangels and slits in the walls for shooting. As you penetrate further into this astonishing land, you want to get to the heart of it, to have fun with it, to fight for its sake.
You breathe the perfumed breeze that wafts down from Taigetos or you forget yourself swimming alone in a delightful cove. Then more towers and churches (Kardamili) and more wild gorges (Diros) and after a while Maniot towers yet again and charming fishing villages and another irresistible cove (Stoupa).

On to shiny rocks and fabulous caves (Katafighi), more churches and bell towers (Thalames Platsa) as you keep walking, a bit bewildered by so much to contemplate but proud, and happy to be alive in such surroundings.
What else can you say about this place, about this wealth!

The castle of Methoni lies at the southernmost end of the west Peloponnesian coast. The site was fortified as early as the 7th century B.C., and in the period between 395 A.D. and 1204 A.D. was used as a Byzantine fortress. The area was dominated by the Franks for a very short period and in 1206 was captured by the Venetians who strengthened the fortification, incorporating the pre-Christian defensive structures. In 1500 Methoni was captured by the Turk Bayazit Pasha, again came under Venetian occupation from 1685 until 1715, and was for a second time dominated by the Turks who kept it under their control until 1829, when it was liberated by the French general Maison, along with other towns of the Peloponnese.


The castle occupies the headland to the east of the modern town and is built on the ruins of the ancient Messenian town of Asine. It was erected in the 6th or 7th century A.D., and was used all through the Byzantine period. Koroni was captured by the Venetians in 1206 and was used as a supplying centre. In 1500 the castle of koroni was occupied by the Turk Bayazit Pasha and remained under Turkish domination until 1686 when the Venetians recaptured it. In 1715, when the Venetians left the Peloponnese, the Turks who kept it until 1828, when the French general Maison liberated it, again dominated the castle. The Benakeion Archaeological Museum is situated at the heart of the historical centre of Kalamata. This remarkable Venetian-style mansion, at the corner of Benaki and Papazoglou streets, accommodates a rich collection of archaeological treasures from various sites in Messenia, which span the time from the Bronze Age to the Roman period. The museum owes its name to Antonios Benakis, founder of the Benaki Museum in Athens. Following his wish, his heirs donated the building to the Greek Archaeological Service in 1962. Built in 1742, during the Turkish occupation, it was closely associated with important historical events of that period. In 1971 it was opened as a museum. The old exhibition included finds from small-scale excavations undertaken by the 7th Ephorate of Prehistoric and Classical Antiquities, but artefacts from the major excavations at Malthi and Nichoria formed its nucleus. The mezzanine floor housed Byzantine antiquities and other historical relics from Kalamata.


For many years, the Archaeological Service has been carrying out restoration work at various buildings of the castle. Every summer cultural events like concerts and plays put on by the Kalamata theatre are held in the amphitheatre of the castle.
In the evening, the town comes alive, especially along the waterfront which is lined with taverns, seafood restaurants and rotisseries serving local dishes and drinks, fresh fish, roast suckling pig and chicken, sausages, cheese, olives, retsina and raki.



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